This is a day trip with a difference. It combines historic forts, striking wadis and the Sea of Oman. For a glorious day trip from Muscat take route 15 from near the airport and head to Nakhal Fort. The modern network of roads in Oman is great, and once away from Muscat quite quiet. The three-lane motorway leaving the airport cuts through desert landscapes. There is a lot of property construction along the route. Then, about an hour after leaving, the city bustle subsides, and we spot our first camels in the shade of a few palm trees. An hour or so after this we arrive at Nakhal, a tranquil, traditional town, whose existence suggests a source of water.
Nakhal Fort
The first views of the fort will not disappoint. Rising dramatically from a 61m high rocky outcrop, the fort is surrounded by lush date palms. The current structure, was built in 1834 during the reign of Imam Said Bin Sultan. The fort was built on foundations dating from the pre-Islamic era. It is 200m in length and 34m wide, has seven round watch towers to deflect cannonballs and high walls. It clearly had a defensive role. The views of the Batinah plains and the date palms is magnificent. Costing 500 baisa to enter there is a lot to explore inside and a number of viewpoints from which to observe the surrounding areas.
Wadi Bani Awf
A wadi is a narrow gorge carved from flowing water. Oman’s coastline is lined with many of these wadis flowing down to the sea from the Hajar mountains. These wadis are home to many farmers that take advantage of the water to create a mini paradise. It is a haven for nature lovers and a space away from the desert heat.
From Nakhal Fort head west along route 13 towards Al Rustaq. About half-way you pass the northern entrance to Wadi Bani Awf. This is a stunning narrow canyon with dramatic rocky limestone rising steeply on either side. The lush green valley floor is filled with date palms, mango and fig trees. It’s a great place for a picnic and to watch the farmers tend their crops. The tarmacked road comes to an end at Al Bardah, but with a 4WD the unmade road provides access to Snake Gorge Canyon, and Bilad Sayt. From here carry onto Al Hamra,from where Nizwa can be easily reached. The journey is not for the faint hearted though with narrow tracks falling away steeply.
Al Rustaq Fort
Al Rustaq Fort and the souk next door, just 20-30 minutes from Wadi Bani Awf, are also well worth a visit. This is considered to be the 2ndbiggest fort in Oman and is considered to be a legacy of the Azid Kings. Conflicting historical evidence also points to Persian involvement on the site dated to around 1250 A.D.
Despite its uncertain origins, this recently renovated castle is not to be missed. It dominates the city and oasis of Wilayat al Rustaq. Over the entrance is a murder hole for pouring boiled hot oil on marauders. It has many watch towers, some of them with interesting names such as Burj Al Reeh (Tower of Wind) and Burj Al Hadeeth (New Tower). Indeed it has a plethora of internal structures. For example the south-east corner is occupied by a rectangular fortress. In addition in this corner is a round tower with gun platforms. The south-west corner in contrast has an oddly-shaped ovoid tower. In its heyday in the seventh century, Rustaq was briefly Oman’s capital. It cost just OR1 to enter, and although some work is still ongoing, it makes a great place to explore.
Route 13 between Nakhal and Al Rustaq also provides access to many wadis. Near Al Rustaq there is also access to Wadi Sahtan. This route takes you along the base of the Hajar mountains and connects with Wadi Bani Awf from where you can return onto the main route 13.
Finally, return to Muscat on the motorway route 11 which eventually joins route 1, also known as the coast road.
Nangle angle
A modern road network and facilities makes touring simple to once remote but breath-taking destinations.
Nangle facts & tips
A 4WD will be required to drive through both Wadi Bani Awf and Wadi Sahtan. However if you wish only to visit the forts any vehicle will be adequate.
