Our all electric drive in our Hyundai Kona along the Wild Atlantic Way had so far been an amazing adventure. The drive along the idyllic coastal roads of the Haven Coast was followed by the more rugged coastline of Bantry Bay. From crashing waves at Mizen Head to hanging precariously in Ireland’s only cable car, our introduction to the Atlantic Ocean had been simply stupendous. We could see the thundering Atlantic Ocean at Dursey Island through the wooden planks of the cable car floor. We didn’t know what to expect next. However, the next section was on the Iveragh Peninsula on the Wild Atlantic Way.
The Iveragh Peninsula, combines two dramatic drives, the Ring of Kerry and the Wild Atlantic Way. The former is a very popular route and it is not unusual to find coach loads of people here. This was the landscape that received Hollywood interest. Dramatic Skellig Michael is used in the scene of the Last Jedi while the beautiful sands of Waterville provided Charlie Chaplin with a refuge.
Killarney
At Killarney, our starting point and the main town on the route, the hotels were buzzing. We had seen more tourists here than anywhere else on the Wild Atlantic Way. Having availed ourselves of the fast charger here the previous night we set off early to avoid the crowds.
Ring of Kerry versus the Wild Atlantic Way
The official Ring of Kerry tour follows a similar route to the Wild Atlantic Way on the Iveragh Peninsula. However, there are some notable differences. On the westernmost section of the peninsula, the Wild Atlantic Way traverses the smaller lanes beside the rugged coastline. From these lanes, the vistas change from majestic hill plateaus to the vast Atlantic Ocean littered with mysterious rocky islands. It has the added benefit of leaving behind the coach loads of tourists following the Ring of Kerry route.
Sneem
We left Killarney to travel the Ring of Kerry route anti-clockwise. Having already visited Kenmare, we chose to follow the Black Valley road from the Moll’s Gap junction to Sneem. This was a very good decision. This remote road snakes through the rolling hills of the Black valley laid out in front like a Constable painting. The sunlight sneaking through the cloudy sky, dances on the hill tops. Sheep, their backsides painted in colourful reds, greens, pinks and purple roam freely across the boggy land. This was a chance to visit the interior of the Iveragh peninsula dominated by the MacGillycuddy Reeks. It is also where one finds Carrountoohil, Ireland’s highest mountain. It provides a worthy contrasting landscapes to the melodrama of the Atlantic seascapes.
Staigue fort
At Castle Cove, follow the signs to Staigue fort. It doesn’t appear on the official guide and there were not many on the road. Just as well, as the narrow, winding, often single-track road, would have been a challenge. However, it is well worth the effort to observe this feat of construction. Designed entirely without the use of mortar it is built from stones to create a wall 6m high and 4m thick. Inside, the enclosed area has a diameter of 30m. It is thought to have been built in the early AD days and before Christianity came to Ireland. It is possible to climb onto the ramparts and walk the entire circular wall. Indeed there are several staircases inside that allow one to do so. There is a single entrance with a huge slab of stone over the doorway.
Shortly after the Wild Atlantic Way diverges from the official Ring of Kerry route heading towards the stunning coast.
Caherdaniel town and Derrynane House
A stop here combines brilliant beaches and a visit to a historic house. Derrynane house as home to Daniel O’Connell, one of Irelands leading statesman. He was known as the Great Liberator for his political work including the right for Catholics to sit in parliament. The landscaped grounds around the house provide great walking, especially in the section on the opposite side of the road. Access is provided through a tunnel below the road.
Waterville & Charlie Chaplin
This pretty little seaside village has one major claim to fame. It is here that Charlie Chaplin visited annually for many years. There is a walk along the promenade named after him and plenty of tasteful imagery.
Ballinskellig
Just beyond Waterville, leave the main Ring of Kerry route and head towards Ballinskellig. We couldn’t have chosen a better place to stop for lunch. This is a stunning stretch of white sand. It was time to stretch our legs on this Blue Flag listed beach and hike to the old 16thcentury castle ruin – McCarthy Mor Castle, also known as Ballinskelligs Castle. It is now in ruins, but has a tower to explore. Ballinskelligs can also claim one of the first transatlantic cable stations, built in 1874. By 1923 however, this station was transferred to Cornwall.
Portmagee to Skellig island on the Iveragh Peninsula
Continue along the coast road from Ballinskellig to Portmagee. The long straight road leading to Portmagee gives wonderful views of the Atlantic Ocean dotted with a string of small islands. The most famous of these is the mysterious island of Skellig Michael. Unfortunately, today the waves were too rough to risk a landing on Skellig. Therefore, we had to settle for a film at the Skellig experience centre on Valentia Island, opposite Portmagee. There were 3-hour boat trips willing to take tourists to get a close-up view of the islands. However, the desire to visit Skellig will be one reason we return to the Iveragh Peninsula.
Valentia Island
From Portmagee there is a causeway to Valentia Island. This is one of the most enchanting islands providing dramatic views of the coastline with a light house and history to match. The Geokaun area at the centre of the island also provides great views and a loop walk. We left the island at the eastern end by ferry from Kights town to Renard’s point on the mainland. From here the road takes one to Cahersiveen. This is the official Ring of Kerry route and the continuation of the Wild Atlantic Way.
Shannon
From here we had to make tracks to Shannon and our hotel for the night. It was a real pity to miss out on the Dingle peninsula, but we will return, politics allowing. At Shannon we charged up at the fast charger a short drive from our hotel at
Nangle angle
The highlight of this section is the coastline from Ballinskellig to Valentia island.
Nangle facts & tips
Boat trips to Skellig Michael are 6-7 hour trips leaving at 8.30am. Shorter trips that circle the islands to give a closer view take 3 hours. Tickets can be purchased from the Skellig Experience centre.
