A brief history of Muscat
Muscat became Oman’s capital city in the late 18thcentury. It had come to prominence due to its location in the Arabian sea and its protected harbour. We first came across this Omani trading spirit in Kilwa Kisiwani in Southern Tanzania. It was inevitable that Oman’s seafaring past and established trade routes would attract the attention of Western powers. So, the arrival of the Portuguese, in the early parts of the 16thcentury, from a historical perspective, was not unexpected. They managed to last nearly a century and half, before being ousted by Imam Sultan bin Saif in 1650. The Imam’s son continued his father’s work. By the end of the 17thcentury all the coastal areas to Southern Tanzania and Zanzibar were under the control of the Imam.
The British arrive!
By the 18thcentury the British had arrived on the scene and managed to integrate their interests with the internal affairs of Oman. Speed forward to the early part of the 20thcentury and Oman’s near disappearance from the world stage. By 1970, Oman’s fortunes take another twist when Qaboos bin Sa’id overthrew his father with the help of the British. Today the Sultanate of Oman is a modern, thriving nation of 3- million people supported by the oil and natural gas industry. In addition, it is supported by an army of workers from across the globe. This bonanza is predicted to last only for another 30 or so years, when Oman will require alternative sources of income.
Understanding modern Muscat
It was difficult to initially get a handle on the essence of Muscat. Driving in from the airport along a 3-lane motorway, cheek by jowl with motorcades of 4WD vehicles is a hint of what is to come. This coastal road is lined with fragrant, colourful flowers tended to by workers from Bangladesh. There is so much development along this 50km stretch to old Muscat, that there is no evidence of Oman’s exotic past. Yet its unique location and charming people make this one of our top destinations last year. Their penchant for embracing the new, makes it one of easiest introductions to the Middle East. To absorb Muscat, take stroll from the Sultan’s palace in Old Muscat, along the Mutrah cornich to the fish and vegetable souks along the harbour. This approximately 6-mile walk moves from the old to the new and gives a fascinating glimpse of Muscat.
Old Muscat
Begin the walk at the Sultan Qaboos palace in old Muscat. There is a lot to do here exploring the grounds around the blue and gold colonnaded Palace and the external corridors of buildings associated with the Court. Walk down the long drive way from the Palace to find the National Museum, located directly opposite. Once you have had your fill, walk to the rear of the Palace. This is on the waterfront and you will find yourself surrounded by the Palace and hospital, Al Mirani Fort and across the water, the Al Jalili fort. The latter is for navy personnel only.
Al Jalili and Al Mirani Forts in Old Muscat
The presence of these forts is the reason this region is called Old Muscat. Built on Arab foundations, Al-Jalili and Al-Mirani Fort were built by Portuguese invaders in 1580. Al Jalili is the fort on the hillside on the opposite side of the bay. Al Mirani fort towers above, built around the rocky outcrop. Both these forts cannot be visited by tourists. However, the former is now a museum charting Omani history, while the latter is used by the military.
Unfortunately, it is not possible to follow Al Mirani Street that hugs the coast. Al Mirani Street ends with another smaller fort and a magnificent dhow now taken out of the water. Instead it is necessary to return to Bab al Mutthaib Street slightly inland. Once passed the Mathaib gate, take the road to Mutrah. This is Al Bahri road which passes by Kalbuh Bay Park on the coast. The huge incense burner atop a small hill in Al Riyam park is visible in the distance and is your first destination. The walk along the coast here is very rewarding with the light sea breezes in the evening. In front of the incense burner is a small hill tower which can be climbed to obtain views of the harbour.
Mutrah harbour
The corniche around the small harbour provides a relaxing introduction to Muscat. There are vessels in the harbour belonging to the Sultan such as his personal dhow and ship. The harbour is also alive with a number of smaller vessels, particularly those of fisherman that land their catch here each morning. This small harbour is now increasingly dominated by cruise ships too.
Mutrah Fort
At the eastern end of the cornich is Mutrah Fort. This fort was also built by the Portuguese in 1580, at the same time as the Al-Jalili and Al-Mirani forts. It is possible to walk part of the way up the hill to obtain views of the harbour. Officially though, the fort is closed to tourists.
Mutrah Souk
Between Mutrah harbour and the low-lying hills is a narrow stretch of land that is home to Muscat’s souks. One of the entrances to the souk is close to the blue mosque on the waterfront. The narrow alleyways of the souk are filled with shops selling everything from gold jewellery to incense and everything inbetween. It isn’t that easy to get lost in here, unlike the Marrakech souks, due to its small size. Nevertheless, it provides a shopping bonanza for the huge cruise ships that stop in port for a day or two. Obviously try to avoid these crowds for a more Omani experience. Top sellers are gold from India, and frankincense and myrrh for which Oman is famed.
For a more authentic, but nevertheless modern Omani experience visit the vegetable and fish souks in the modern buildings on the western side of the corniche.
Finally, there are plenty of other modern sites in sprawling Muscat such as the Opera House in Qurm district and the Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque even further west. However, visiting these will require a vehicle.
Nangle angle
The old and new mix easily here in modern Muscat. It is an easy introduction to Middle Eastern states and will provide for an unforgettable experience.
Nangle Facts & tips
Oman can be expensive. However, there are plenty of supermarkets e.g. Carrefour where shopping is relatively cheap. The Mutrah district is one of the cheaper areas in Muscat.
