Istanbul, the metropolis of antiquity, sprawls across the Bosporus straits that connects the Black Sea with the Sea of Marmara and eventually the Mediterranean. The strategic importance of the Bosporus like the Suez Canal, cannot be over-estimated. This is civilisation’s melting pot with a recorded history dating back to the Persian King Cyrus. Others have followed – the Greeks, Romans and Ottomans to name just a few. Undoubtedly, all those who passed through have left their mark. Today, this city bulging at the seams with over 15 million residents, is one of the places that should be high on any traveller’s list. This post describes a 4-day visit and takes you to places frequented by locals.
Day 1 – Istanbul Old City
Located on the west bank of the Golden Horn, at the southern end of the Bosporus and the Sea of Marmara is Istanbul’s Old City. This is where the majority of the major monuments are located and it is where most tourists spend their time.
Basilica cistern
Located on the southwest corner of the Hagia Sophia is the Basilica Cistern. This subterranean water reservoir was built for the Byzantine emperor, Justinian I. This is a masterpiece of engineering. It’s dimensions measure 140m x 70m. The walls are made from brick 4.8m high. It is supported by 336, 9m marble columns. The columns reflect the Corinthian and Dorian architecture. It is estimated that the cistern has a water storage capacity of 100,000 tonnes. Elevated walkways guide you through the dimly lit cistern. In the north-western corner of the cistern are two columns supported by two Medusa heads. One of these is upside down and the other on its side. Dare to look directly at it?
Hagia Sophia
Possibly built originally by Constantine the Great (306-337) and dedicated in the reign of Constantine II (337-361), the Hagia Sophia dominates the Old City. This structure is not the original. The current version was built by Emperor Justinian I between 532-537 AD. It has a cavernous interior with precious paintings and features a large dome supported by 2 smaller domes. When the Ottoman’s arrived, the Hagia Sophia was converted to a mosque by Sultan Mehmed II in 1453. In 1935, Ataturk transformed the building into a museum.
The Sultanahmet Mosque or Blue Mosque
Directly opposite the Hagia Sophia through some splendid gardens and past the Hammam is the Blue Mosque. Built between 1609-1617 the format of the mosque follows those of Sinan the Architect. It is square, with the central dome surrounded by 4 semi-domes on four sides. The central dome is supported by pillars. On the outside there are six minarets. Four of these have three balconies while the two short minarets have two balconies each. Almost the entire interior is covered with stunning blue, green and turquoise tiles. In addition marble, mother-of-pearl and wood working skills found here are of the highest standards.
Tomb of Sultan Ahmed I
Close to the Blue mosque is the Tomb of Sultan Ahmed. The 16th& 17thcentury Ottoman sultans are all buried here. The interior designs dominated by tiling, is stunning.
German Fountain
This octagonal monument is dedicated to the visit of the Prussian King and German Emperor Wilhelm II in 1898. It is design is that of an Ottoman fountain, although designed by a German and Italian architect. Walk past the German fountain to the Grand Bazaar.
Grand Bazaar
Well brace yourself for an explosion of colour, smell and incredible fine art. This centuries old bazaar displays the art of several empires. Since the 4th century and the fall of the Western Roman Empire, Constantinople became the terminus of the Silk Road. It has the perfect location to control trade to the west, from the Black Sea to the north and into the Aegean. After a session in the Grand Bazaar we made our escape along Gedik Pasa Cd street and walked the length of it till we reached the Sea of Marmara.
Sea of Marmara * the Ruins of the Bucoleon Palace
It was a stunning day and there really was nothing better than a walk along the coast. We strolled past the Ruins of the Bucoleon Palace overlooking the Sea of Marmara. It was built by Emperor Theodosium II (408-450). These crumbling ruins are not much to look at, but it is hard not stop your mind from wondering what it once might have looked like and the amazing views from its windows.
Whirling Dervish performance
We finished the day with a meditative performance of the Whirling Dervishes at Hodjapasha Centre in the Old Town.
Day 2 Istanbul Old Town
Topkapi Palace
This is an Ottoman palace overlooking the Bosporus, the Golden Horn and Sea of Marmara. Built between 1460 – 1478 by Mehmed the Conqueror (1451 – 1481) following the conquest of Constantinople in 1453. It covers an area of around 700K m2 . It is the official residence of the Ottoman Sultans until 1861, when they moved to Dolmabahce Palace. This is quite a large complex and consists of many areas. Some of the best maintained are the Harem, Hagia Eirene and Treasury. The latter displays the jewellery, chinaware, calligraphy, books and other treasures. There is a restaurant on the waterway within the complex, a great place to watch the activity on the water.
Istanbul Archaeological Museum
A short 5-minute walk from the Topkapi Palace is the Istanbul Archaeological Museum. This museum is a treasure trove of artefacts dating back millennia. It has on display historical items from Sumerian, Egyptian Assyrian and Anatolian history. This really is a walk down the millennia.
Chora Museum
The Chora Museum is a medieval Byzantine Church about an hour’s walk further north along the Golden Horn waterway. It is part of the Istanbul Museum Pass. The walk from the Topkapi Palace takes one through typical Turkish streets. It is a great walk. Pick up a freshly squeezed pomegranate, orange and ginger drink enroute.
Day 3 Istanbul – Outside the Old Town
Eminonu ferry terminal & the Galata bridge
Today we are turning our attention to modern day Turkey by walking across the Galata bridge, starting at the Eminonu and the ferry terminal for Bosporus cruises. This is more like the real Turkey. The double layered bridge has restaurants on the lower level selling every kind of fish dish. It is a great place to stop and stare at the activity on the water.
And, trust me there is a lot of it. Short distance ferries sweep in an out of the smaller boats, docking momentarily for the customers to jump off – literally. Sometimes they are inches away from some of the smaller boats. On the waters edge are restaurants. Here the tethered boats act as kitchens cooking the days catch. On the road level, 100s of fisherman throw their lines into the water. They are having a lot of luck today. Behind them the electric trams trundle. There are pomegranate vendors willing to make us a fresh flask of juice which we accept willingly. There are allegedly over 2000 mosques in Istanbul and 300 churches. Their minarets dominate the skyline. From here you can also see six of the seven peaks that surround Istanbul.
Galata tower
On the other end of the Galata bridge is Karakoy wharf. From here it is a steep climb up to the Galata tower built in the 14th century. This was a time when Genoese traders dominated the region. All around the tower are narrow streets full to the brim with vendors.
Mevlevi museum
The Galata Mevlevi House is the first Mevlevi House in Istanbul. It was founded in 1491 by Iskender Pasha. This small museum is a short distance from the Galata tower and provides a history of how Sufi Islam came to Turkey from Afghanistan. It is also the location of a Whirling Dervish performance.
Istiklal Caddesi
This is where Istanbul folk hang out at all times including at night. This pedestrianised street heaving with shoppers, colourful displays in shop windows is a short walk from Mevlevi museum. A single tram line runs down the centre of the street. Occasionally a tram with a single carriage trundles down the line. At the other end of the Istikal Caddesi is Taksim Square and the Taksim Republic Monument built in 1928. It depicts Mustafa Kemal Ataturk, Founder of modern secular Turkey, as the man of the people.
Day 4 – Istanbul – Arnavutkoy & Bebek
Take a taxi to Arnavutkoy and the fish restaurants on the Bosporus. This is hip, modern Turkey. After lunch, we walked along the promenade to Bebek. The Bosporus waters glisten a dazzling blue in the sunshine. Tankers from the Black Sea ply the waters as they head to the Mediterranean. Cruise ships and small boats too are present. Moored yachts offer to take groups out on the water for a negotiable fee. On the promenade scooters and other modern wheels pass us. It has a feel of California about it. As we near Bebek, the dramatic Rumeli Fortress, towers above the Bosporus, just before the 2nd Bosporus bridge. The narrow road is busy despite or maybe because it is a Sunday. The restaurants are full, falling onto the road. There certainly is money around these parts.
Finally, take the opportunity to soak up the unique atmosphere of Istanbul, it’s waterways and endless restaurants.
Nangle angle
A feast of cultures and in these troubled times, a lesson in how to be kind to your neighbours.
Nangle facts & tips
Accommodation on a short 3-4 day trip was in the Old City due to its proximity to the main tourist sites.
We purchased an Istanbul Museum pass costing TL295.
Transport – use the electric trams to get around easily.
