The term fjord is synonymous with Norway. No more so than in the Western fjords where the restless landscape is sculpted by ever-changing weather to create some of Norway’s most dramatic and breath-taking scenery. Steeped in tradition, this untamed landscape of towering mountains, deep fjords and lush valleys, does not disappoint. Indeed of the 18 National tourist routes, the Trollstigen-Gerainger road on route 63 must surely be one of the best. This is day 2 of our road trip from Trondheim to Oslo via the Western fjords, and today we begin at Andalsnes at the foothills of Trollstigen.
The drama of our surroundings this morning however was obscured by a thick cotton cloud that had sunk down to the river bed. Trollstigen resort is at the foothills of the hairpin bends that climb tortuously up the mountainside on route 63. By now we are deep into Peer Gynt territory. This classic masterpiece, written by one of Norway’s greatest, Henrik Ibsen, is a must read before visiting here. As the sun’s rays had not reached the valley we were hopeful of finding a troll or two before they turned to stone. We were definitely hopeful for at least some views of the ‘hall of the mountain king’ as we set off for the 1stof the hairpin bends that leads to the Trollstigen viewpoint.
Trollstigen
Be it Morocco’s staggeringly beautiful Dades gorge or Norway’s trollstigen, hairpin bends usually mean one thing – a hair raising ride and awe-inspiring scenery. This climb is inevitably more dramatic in thick cloud. We pass thundering unseen waterfalls and are stopped by a herd of cattle not keen to move. The cloud begins to rise and dissipate as the sun peaks into the valley as we negotiate the 11-hairpin bends. Despite the single-track road we do not need to stop for others. Moreover the road is by no means dangerous or busy by most standards.
The cotton soft clouds nestled in the valley adds to the drama, the road travelled, slowly emerging below as we stand on the viewpoint. Up here it’s cold even in August and the treeless landscape still capped in snow. There is a café and facilities. This morning the car park was full of campervans. The folks emerging from them suggested they had spent a cold night up here.
Trollstigen has been used as a trade route for many centuries. The original hiking trail became a bridleway and then in 1916 construction of the new road began. In 1936 the road was officially opened by King Haakon VII. Today, the old trail can still be hiked for those more adventurous. As usual we wished we had more time. Reluctantly we continue onto through Valldalen, famous here for its strawberries to the ferry at Linge.
Crossing Linge to Eidsdal route 63 continues to Geraingerfjord
Driving off the short 10-minute ferry from Linge to Eidsdal the scenery becomes a lot greener after the barren landscapes of Trollstigen. The sun emerges as we head towards the car park at Ornesvegen.
Ornesvegenviewpoint is named after another 11-hairpin bends that descend steeply into Gerainger. It is a a short drive from the Eidsdal ferry terminal. Today, a cruise ship was gently approaching the terminal at Gerainger and dominating the little town at the head of the fjord.
Flydalsjuvetis the 2nd viewpoint north above Gerainger town. From this architect designed platform, staggering views of the Geraingerfjord are visible. It is not unsurprising that in 2005 UNESCO deemed it worthy of protection. The mountains here rise steeply from the deep green waters of the fjord, while in August straggly waterfalls cascade down fanning out over a large area. This we believe is the De syvv sostrene or the Seven Sisters waterfall. Norway has a thing about the number 7!
Picturesque Geraingerfjord
The little town at the head of the fjord is reinventing itself as a Sustainable Destination, i.e. to say it is working systematically to reduce the negative impact of tourism. We do feel that this terminology requires more clarity. There were a number of Renault Twizy electric vehicles waiting for the hordes just about to descend from the enormous ferry that has just made port. There is also a Fortum fast charge point in the village. This road was opened in the summer 1936 to provide year-round access for the small town. In the winter months that alone is an impressive feat.
South of Geraingerfjord
The staggering views continue above the quaint town of Gerainger as we head south on another series of hairpin bends. We continue past the church and reach a view point next to a stone tablet with the inscription of Wilhelm II. As we leave the stupendous views of the fjord, we head higher on steep roads. The stunning scenery continues, and the views from higher even more breathtaking. At the pass on the top is a deep blue lake with glacier as a backdrop.
From here there is a private toll road, Nibbevegen at approximately 1000m that leads to Dalsnibba at 1500m above sea level. The viewing platform here was architecturally designed and opened in 2016. The road is owned by Gerainger skywalk from where tickets can be purchased. Due to the altitude, the road is only opened in the summer. Check their website more details.
We continued on route 63 until we eventually reach the junction with route 15. Finally, from here we race back to the airport. Fortunately, shortly after the small town of Otta, the E6 turns into a motorway and it was easy to make headway, back to the airport.
We had definitely left the best till last on our two-week trip to Norway.
Nangle angle
Hire an electric vehicle to drive this stunning road, one of Norway’s best.
Nangle facts & tips
Fast electric car charging points are available at Valldal near the ferry terminal and Grotli supplied by Gronnkontakt. In between the two at Gerainger is a Fortum fast electric car charger.
