Bergen today is Norway’s 2ndlargest city and lies in the Western fjords. It grew to prominence as a member of the Hanseatic league as far back as the 13thcentury when it also became Norway’s then capital. Today the streets surrounding the harbour depicts much of this trading history, with its historic wooden houses, narrow cobbled streets and ancient places of worship. But Bergen, despite the almost incessant rain, is a place from where the great outdoors can be easily explored. Views of the distant, glistening fjords are never far away, while also easily accessible are the many hiking trails on the hills that surround Bergen. This is the landscape that inspired its greatest son, Edvard Grieg.
Our walking tour is just a guide. The map below covers the areas which we chose to visit and it is one we can recommend. In addition, there are also endless museums covering all aspects of Bergen life. But there is also much ‘living history’ that can be observed in this UNESCO site.
1. Stavhusgaten, the terminus of the Bergen light railway
We started our walking tour at Stavhusgaten, the terminus of the Bergen light railway that provides access from the airport directly into the city centre. From here it is a short 5-minute walk to Torgallmenningen.
2. Torgallmenningen
Torgallmenningen is the wide pedestrianised street and shopping centre of Bergen. This is a good place to start any walking tour.
3. Bergen Fish Market
At the end of the Torgallmenningen is the Bergen Fish market. This place comes alive at lunch and dinner time. Waiters deftly move around crowded rooms with plates full of sea food. The wild salmon, the pinkest, and at sizes more than double I have seen is on offer plated with salads. The cost was a staggering £50 per person. Herring, Cod and even Whale are on offer. Opposite the fish market is a statue of Ludvig Holberg, a 17-18thcentury philosopher and essayist whose 200thanniversary of his birth was celebrated by Grieg who immortalised him in his classic work, the Holberg Suite.
4. Nedre Korskirkeallmenningen
We headed away from the waterfront through the warren of narrow cobbled streets towards the old stone church, founded in 1150. This area is heavy with street art, scribbled, etched and painted on many a wall. Some of it quite political. In this area are many Indian and Chinese restaurants. Friendly locals are always willing to stop and have a chat. It was here that we spotted the Segway tours, gingerly wheeling down the street as the tourists got the hang of balancing.
5. Lille Ovregaten
Wend your way down this narrow, cobbled street with white washed little wooden houses facing each other. It’s ornate facades with filigree work, gargoyles, Juliet balconies and tiny windows date from the earliest days of the city. There is plenty of accommodation on this street, unusual small shops dominated by the cathedral at one end. At the other end is the lower stop of the funicular that takes you up Mount Floyen.
6. Floibanen station
Take the 7-minute funicular up Mount Floyen a 1000ft above the city for its panoramic views. Use your Bergen card to buy a one way ticket costing NOK50 and get 50% of the price of the funicular.
7. Mount Floyen
The panoramic views at the top of mount Floyen should stretch for miles across fjords and the seven mountains that surround it. Today however low clouds reflected in the grey seas and heavy rain was the order of the day.
We wished we had bought an umbrella. But stoically we decided to walk back down. There could have been more signs on the main route but it gave us an opportunity to talk to young and old residents alike only too willing to guide us off the mountain.
The hillside has a ‘cluster’ of sheep and goats that are allowed to roam freely as in days gone by. However, these animals are high tech, all heavily tagged so that they can be monitored. Today even these animals had decided to take shelter in a small barn constructed just for them. We joined the residents all taking their daily constitutional on the hill, breathing in the ultra-fresh air, watching the drip drip of the water droplets from the leaves and listening to the gurgling streams as the water rushed back to the sea. Half way you get the opportunity to watch the funicular’s tracks rising steeply up the mountain. There is also a walk to adjoining Mount Ulriken from where another funicular reconnects with the Bergen light railway to return you to the city centre.
8. Telhussmauet
This the road we arrived on after walking down Mount Floyen. We decided to stay a couple of streets up the mountain to wander through the older and less explored parts of the town. This is an area of traditional white wooden houses, cobbled streets and steep narrow paths made up of narrow steps. From here we walked via Ovre Blekeveien towards St Mary’s Church.
9. Bergenhus Fortress
Built in 1261, King Haakon’s hall is the only surviving part of this stone royal palace on the Bergen waterfront. You can explore the grounds and walk along the fortress walls. There was a concert in progress playing rock music that rang out across much of the area. The stone tower known as the Rosenkrantz toweris a medieval and once fortified tower built by Erik Rosenkrantz the Governor of Bergen. Its structure incorporates earlier structures such as the Castle Keep. The tower was undergoing renovation in August 2018.
10. Bryggen
The colourful images of the wooden houses on the waterfront a short walk from the Bergenhus Fortress is Bryggen. At one end is St Mary’s church and the other near the Fish Market. The area known as Bryggen dates back some 900 years. It was established as a trading post for the German Hanseatic league in the 13th century. There are many pine-wood buildings behind the waterfront that are currently undergoing renovation. Most of these timbers are over 150 years old and due to their high heartwood content (70-80%), they are resistant to decomposition. Currently parts of the UNESCO designated World Heritage site are being renovated using some very traditional building techniques.
11. Bergen Art Museum
Finally, designated as Kode 1-4 this series of buildings along Lars Hill provides an insight into Norwegian art and includes an indepth exhibition by Edvard Munch. To do this justice you would probably need the best part of a day, but it is still worth getting a glimpse of the wide variety of art on show if you are still standing.
Nangle angle
There is a surprising amount of interest in Bergen and the surrounding area encompassing music, art and fjords.
Nangle facts & tips
Information about the Bergen light railway can be found here.
Check out whether the Bergen card is worth getting here.
Where to stay – Many Thon hotels are Eco-lighthouse certified. In addition Comfort hotel near Bergen airport also has an ethical programme which supports UNICEF initiatives such as the Sweet Dreams project.
