Pocitelj, on UNESCO’s watchlist
Our road trip from Split to Dubrovnik via Bosnia had already taken us to Mostar, the historic city known for its spectacular marble bridge that spanned the Neretva river. Having spent the best part of the day in Mostar, we hoped to make it to Dubrovnik for dinner. The roads were excellent with little traffic. We left Mostar heading southwest along the Neretva river after lunch. The road hugged the side of the Neretva in the broad river valley given over to farming. Consequently, in the vast valley, Pocitelj was sighted easily atop a hill, two-hours after leaving Mostar. In the emptiness of the landscape, this walled city was alluring and we pulled in to explore.
Historic Pocitelj towers above the road half-way between Mostar and Dubrovnik
Medieval and Ottoman influences in Pocitelj
These 14th century inhabited ruins towering high up above the river, dominate the landscape. The central core of the complex is the oldest and is thought to be built by the Bosnian King Stjepan Tvrtko I in 1383. Over the ensuing centuries medieval, particularly Hungarian, and Ottoman influences, enlarged and fortified the town. The Ottoman influence predominated between the late 15th to 19th centuries. As a consequence a number of public buildings such as the mosque, hamam or Turkish baths and the clocktower originate from this period. Information about these structures comes mostly from the chronicles of the 17th century traveller Evlija Celebi. In addition, it has been noted that the architecture of the housing stock has both Mediterranean and Oriental influences.
In the late 19th century the Austro-Hungarian empire gained control of Bosnia. As a result of its location, Pocitelj lost its strategic value. This was the catalyst that finally confined Pocitelj to the history books. The final nail in the coffin was hammered in the ethnic conflict of the 1990s when Pocitelj suffered extensive damage.
Life continues in the ruins
The ancient walled town of Pocitelj is clearly visible from the road. The Muezzin call to prayer can be heard, amplified through the mosque speakers, across the surrounding area. You can walk through the ruins and gain fabulous views of the countryside. Fruit stalls lined the road just outside the city walls displaying local produce. Perhaps consider supporting the friendly locals by purchasing some juicy fruits or simply stop to chat.
Today Pocitelj is considered to be an endangered cultural heritage site and as a result can be found on the UNESCO watchlist. This status helps prevent further deterioration of the buildings and infrastructure. More importantly refugees and those displaced during the conflict can return with support to help them reestablish themselves in the city.
Medugorje
Finally we drove past Medugorje, now a shrine, where allegedly sighting of the Virgin Mary were witnessed in 1991 by a group of children. Despite not being recognized by the Vatican it has become a focus for Catholics and can be visited off the main road leading from Mostar to Dubrovnik. If you chose, you can attend mass at St James’ Church or climb Apparition hill where the sightings allegedly took place.
The leisurely drive from Pocitelj to the Bosnian Riviera took us along the Neretva river. From here we headed south away from the river towards Southern Dalmatia and crossing into Croatia shortly after. Finally an hour later we arrived in Dubrovnik to the most wonderful sunset.
Facts and tips
Read about our road trip Dubrovnik to Split and our visit to Mostar
