Our road trip from Split to Dubrovnik through Mostar and Pocitelj
Eager to further explore the Balkans, we decided to return to Dubrovnik via Mostar and Pocitelj in Bosnia and Herzegovina. We were excited at the prospect of visiting Bosnia, to discover its historic cities and the stunning landscapes we had read about. It was only twenty years on from the worst fighting of the Balkan wars of the 1990s that resuledt in the break-up of Yugoslavia and the formation of seven independent states. Croatia or the parts we had seen so far did not bare any visible scars of that conflict. We were keen to see and hear what stories Bosnia and Herzegovina would tell us?
Split to Mostar
We chose the motorway out of Split to speed up the journey time and avoid the inevitable distractions of the idyllic Adriatic villages. The roads, largely deserted, meant we could make good headway. Under the cloudy sky, the treeless low mountains of this region were expansive and at times forbidding . Two hours after leaving Split we reached the border. This border crossing in contrast to those on the Adriatic coast was quiet. No surprise as there had been no one on the road even in Croatia. At Bosnian immigration, we paid US$5 for ‘development purposes’. We were soon to appreciate the need for the ‘development fund’ as the motorway disappeared a couple of kilometres from the border. As a consequence we were left on a minor and relatively unmaintained road. In view of the remoteness, we were rather impressed how quickly our Satnav found us.
The difference in the road network was an indicator of the economic disparity between these two countries. Nevertheless, this single lane road was no busier than the motorway and therefore perfectly adequate for the level of traffic. We travelled through dusty countryside that had been taken over by scrubland. There didn’t appear to be many folks around in this area.
Finally, we caught our first glimpse of Mostar from the road on the lip of the hills that surrounded the town. Seeing such a large sprawling town appear as if from nowhere did take us by surprise. Twenty minutes later we drove into the historic centre of town, nestled on the banks of the Neretva river.
Historic Mostar
In town, an entrepreneurial and friendly parking attendant offered to look after our car for US$2. It was a bargain especially as he was so informative and gave us some tips as to where to explore. We had arrived on the western side of the river. From our car it was just five-minutes to the narrow cobbled streets lined with stalls. Tourists thronged the narrow streets despite it being very early in the season. Mostar was clearly a trading centre for goods from Central Asia and Europe. Beautiful bronze ware, intricately carved, hand spun carpets and pottery were some of the ‘good-buys’ available.
Eventually we made it through the crowded, narrow streets to Stari Most or Old bridge, crossing the Neretva river. And, the bridge definitely is old. This is why tourists come here. Built for the Ottoman Sultans in the late 1560s by the Turkish architect Mimar Hajrudin, it is a feat of engineering. A single polished marble stone-arched span was used to bridge the river. Consequently, in the rain, the stone can become very slippery. The rebuilt structure after the wars has ridge scrolls incorporated to make it easier to traverse the bridge. The original construction it’s important to remember was built at a time when Queen Elizabeth I ruled England, the Ming Dynasty ruled China and the USA did not exist.
The Balkan war
Mostar took some of the biggest hits in the Balkan wars of the 1990s. The loss of the bridge interestingly was the crime that awoke the international community’s conscience. Now rebuilt with input from the World Monuments fund, Aga Khan Trust and a number of European countries, Stari Most is definitely worth a visit.
We stood by the tower on the western side of the bridge, mint ice-cream in hand looking into the water below. These were the same ice-creams on offer throughout Croatia at considerably higher prices. Terraced steps lead down to the waterside from the bridge. In the warm sunshine children played gleefully in the water chatting to the tourists. The view of the old town from the the bridge on either side of the river is reminiscent of a time past. The view from the bridge was of colourful stone cottages cascading down the slopes to the water. In marked contrast, the slopes behind still presented buildings battered by the ravages of the war.
Mostar’s diving tradition
Diving from the high point of the bridge into the water, 21m below and 5m deep is a national obsession here.
We munched on our ice-cream watching a local diver train a German tourist to dive from the centre of the bridge. Guided by the quiet chant-like voice of his trainer, the tourist climbed, arms outstretched, onto a narrow ledge. He leant forward slowly, plummeting earthward, feet first, hitting the water seconds later and disappeared from view. Children standing on the shores of the river below started cheering first. Few seconds later the diver emerged pumping his fist at his achievement. Then, for those watching from above, relief lead to spontaneous applause.
On the eastern side of the river, by the bridge, a couple started busking, each playing a violin. They began with a pretty good rendition of Brahms’s Hungarian dance as we walked past, another sign that there was little difference between the communities here.
Friendly locals ‘make’ our trip
Just a short distance from the bridge is the Koski Mehmed pasha’s mosque, with its striking blue dome. In order to get some wonderful views of the surrounding area, climb the minaret. Close by the mosque the spires of a church can also be seen. We walked further up the hillside with the intention of talking to those not involved in the tourist business. The friendly residents were only to pleased to engage. Standing beside a crumbling doorway and pot marked walls one told us that this wasn’t their home. But they needed somewhere to live after the war. To put it simply, it will take time to identify ownership of these homes and restore the buildings.
As we watched, a monk dressed in brown robes walked beside two nuns and an Imam. Clearly these two religions must have co-existed for years. What on earth could have sparked such unnecessary hostility that lead to the low point of the 1990s? No one we spoke to here has the answer either. There is a stoic acceptance that life needs to move forward. And they are doing exactly that.
Facts and tips
This trip was undertaken in May 2017. We based ourselves in Cavtat, south of Dubrovnik from where we visited Central Dalmatia, Bosnia and Herzegovina and Montenegro.
Bike ride along the old Austro-Hungarian train line from Dubrovnik to Mostar
Further information about Pocitelj from UNESCO
Read about our road trip from Mostar to Dubrovnik via Pocitelj
