Two hours up the Stewart-Cassiar Highway is Meziadin junction. This is where Canada’s Glacier highway route 37A, built in the 1970s, branches off to the border towns of Stewart, Canada and Hyder, Alaska, USA. This 65kms of road is remote, cutting through untouched spruce, cedar and aspen forests, clinging precariously to the hillside. Beautiful snow-capped mountains from now are our constant companions. Signs warn drivers not to linger or stop as glaciers overhang the road. This is a tranquil, deserted road that winds its way into the Alaskan wilds.
Bear Glacier
Then just as we sit back to enjoy the winding road it opens up. Beside the road is the Bear glacier. At one time it reached the road, but global warming is causing the glacier to retreat and the effects are exacerbated in these northern latitudes. We have the road mostly to ourselves apart from the odd camper van and the almost inevitable logging truck.
We continue on our way after breakfast. We pass a dead lynx by the road side, It was certainly not the way we would have wanted to see these secretive animals. There are large patches of snow and ice by the road side now and plenty of insects make a regular screen wash necessary.
Stewart, the border town on Canada’s Glacier highway
Driving into Stewart, the town felt anomalous with the surroundings. This is a modern town at the head of the Portland Canal, the narrow ocean fjord that divides British Columbia with Alaska. Built on the greed of the mining days, today it is a shadow of its former self. Nevertheless, it provides in some form the comforts of modern day living with hotels, restaurants and even a museum detailing the white man’s history here. An estuary boardwalk over the Portland canal has been created, giving the opportunity to explore.
Hyder, Alaska
If it is a more rustic feel you are after, Hyder might be just the place. Styled as the ‘friendliest ghost town’ in the USA, the entrance to Alaska amounts to little more than a sign.
We were unsure as to whether we could cross, but there was no one to stop us. Hyder has a fabulous location, nestled in the foothills of the surrounding mountains. Spotting a sign saying ‘fudge’, we decided to stop. This is the Boundary Gift store, selling souvenirs and some of the best fudge we have eaten. The incredibly friendly storekeeper, Caroline Stewart, gave us a tour of the kitchens and gave us a demonstration of her string instrument. We are a family of approximately 100 people she says. We get on sometime and not others, but we are here if anyone needs help. If you visit Hyder, this is a must-stop location.
Fish Creek just outside Hyder said to be great for bear watching
37kms from Hyder is the Salmon glacier, Canada’s 5thlargest glacier. The drive takes us past Fish Creek, a boardwalk built above the little river that soon will be filled with salmon. This in turn brings both black bears and grizzlies to feast on this bonanza. In June, the season hasn’t quite started. Infact, a chart shows in the last 20 years only in one year did the salmon spawning event begin in June. So, if this is a priority wait till at least July before you come this way.
Salmon glacier at the end of Canada’s Glacier highway
From here the tarmacked road gives way to a well-maintained track. The road climbs steadily, until about 20kms on we arrive at the toe of the salmon glacier. It certainly takes your breath away. Bear droppings indicate we are not alone. Indeed, we pass the Premier gold mines, still active today. The road continues up until we reach Summit viewpoint. It almost feels like you are in a plane observing the glacial flows below. Simply stunning. At this point we are actually back in Canada. You will want to linger. The unusually hot days is worrying and we learn that the toe of the glacier is no longer where it was just 10 years before. Reluctantly we head down. In order to explore the area further a night spent in the area is highly recommended.
Canadian border control
Whereas USA border control was non-existent, the Canadian border guard was highly attentive.
Nangle angle
Canada’s Glacier highway is not a road to be missed. This is nature at its very best.
Nangle facts & tips
Once again there is a fantastic tourist office in Stewart with plenty of information on e.g. the Titan trail and United Empire trail, both leading to old mines. Fishing trips or boat trips to explore the wildlife – from bears to eagles can be organized here too.
