It was an early start that spring morning as we walked fast to catch the 5.20am train from Bucharest to Budapest. Fortunately, we had stayed at the Ibis hotel, just a stone’s throw from Bucuresti Gara de Nord station. The bakery on the forecourt entrance was already in full swing churning out yummy pastries. The decision to take the early morning train wasn’t a difficult one. Our only other option was the night train via Brasov where we would have missed most of the views. We certainly had luck on our side as we had only purchased our tickets (RON374 for two) the previous day at the station. Indeed, the train was full of locals who settled in to have a nap, closing as many curtains as they could!
The Bucharest to Budapest train route
The train trundled out of the station with German-like precision as we settled in for the long haul. This was to be a 14 hour 30minute journey in total. As we were to find out, this was one of the less interesting parts of the country. The train stopped with a regular frequency, heading south initially towards the Bulgarian border and the city of Caracal. From here the train wended its way slowly northwards towards Craiova, eventually reaching the Danube, the frontier between Serbia and Romania.
I counted a minimum of 14 stops by the time we reached Curtici, our last Romanian stop. At every station, however small, the Station master emerged, smartly dressed in uniform, to stand to attention as the train passed. At Curtici station immigration officials boarded. Clearly there was a non-EU border here?
Then it was over into Lokoshaza, our 1ststop in Hungary. Where the Romanian border guards had been pleasant, the Hungarian border guards put on an air of forced severity. Guns, batons, torches, mirrors and ladders were brought on board. It was like being in a WW2 movie. Every page of our passport was scrutinised? This was no-man’s land. Not even the faint hint of a 3G mobile phone signal was to be had.
Then we were on our way again, now inside Hungary. The train cruised through several more stations, probably another 10 or so in the direction of Budapest. The stations now were in better condition, smartly painted and prettily dressed with hanging flower baskets. Unbelievably, we reached Budapest bang on time.
The landscapes from our window
This is a train journey through the rural countryside dominated by farmland. Each track of crop merged with the next crop. No hedges or shrubs delineated the farmland. This was farming on an industrial scale. Towards the Bulgarian border we passed a massive solar photovoltaic array followed a few miles later by drilling rigs pumping oil. There was little animal husbandry, but miles of rolling farmland as far as the eye could see. We were glad we had a good book each.
Past Igiorosa, the track makes a slow winding turn north along the eastern side of the Danube river before reaching Orsova, Romania’s naval port on the Danube. From here the Danube heads west forming the border between Serbia and Hungary. We continued north to Timisoara and Curtici, through a national park with beautiful snow-capped mountains. It was only once we crossed into Hungary that we saw a very few, wild deer in the fields. There was an unsurprising dearth of birdlife too.
Nangle angle
Low cost and low carbon travel. Take a good book or some games for the long journey between Bucharest and Budapest.
Nangle facts & tips
It is possible to purchase the ticket at Bucharest station. For further information try seat61 or to book tickets try Rail Europe. There was no information available at Bucharest airport. The train arrives at Keleti station in Budapest which is on the metro where tickets are priced at €1 per journey.
