A Dutch weekend with a difference
The story of the Dutch is that of a free-spirited people. It is a place where artists like Rembrandt succeeded and faded. Philosopher’s like John Locke and Rene Descartes found freedom to think and write here. Others came in droves to trade. Still others like Napoleon wanted it. Then there is the story of the Dutch in the Far East, Asia, South Africa, and Nigeria even today. There are so many versions of the Dutch that it is best to visit and make up your own mind. That is exactly what happened on a birthday-filled weekend in October.
Historic Haarlem
We arrived at the Carlton hotel in Haarlem, a 30-minute taxi ride costing €45 for the weekend. It is the perfect spot to base oneself for a varied weekend that can encompass country, coast and city. The weather was extraordinarily warm. As a result we headed straight out to the town centre, a 10-minute walk from the hotel. Warning – Beware of the ruthless cyclists on the cobbled streets!
The historic centre of Haarlem even in the evening is a sight to behold. The sheer size of the Grote market or central square, takes one by surprise. At the eastern end of the square is the medieval Roman Catholic Cathedral, the Bavokerk. Built in 1313 it has in fact had many reconstructions. The floor contains some 1350 graves, but it is most famous for the Muller organ built in 1738. What is more, Handel and a 10-year old Mozart have played this organ. Haarlem is also the home of the Frans Hals Museum, the artist who painted the ‘Laughing Cavalier’.
Haarlem has a lively night-time scene too, with cafes and bars spilling onto the cobbled streets around the Bavokerk. We ate at the relatively new, but hugely popular Popocatepetl restaurant serving authentic Mexican cuisine. The food, ambience and friendly staff would definitely make it a ‘will-return-to’ place.
Saturday morning
On Saturday morning, we walked back to the Grote Markt to visit the lively market. The whole square was packed with stalls selling some very delicious bakery products, not to mention cheeses. Perhaps not quite French patisserie, but nevertheless the variety was eye-grabbing. We picked up our breakfast here enroute to Haarlem train station for our 15-minute ride to Amsterdam. A return ticket cost €8.40 each.
Our Walking tour of Amsterdam
We arrived at Amsterdam’s grand neo-renaissance station by mid-morning at the northern end of the Damrak. The Damrak was once a canal full of ships, ending at De Waag, the Weigh station. Today the Damrak is the bustling road that leads to Dam Square from the station. The large brick building, on the Damrak is the Beurs van Berlage, that once was the stock exchange. Today it is a concert hall.
The monument to the fallen in WWII dominates Dam square and the pigeons dominate the monument. Towards the western side of Dam square is the Koninklijk palace. Originally built in 1655 as a city hall, since 1808 it is the residence of the Royal family. Beside the palace is the Nieuwe Kerk, built in the 15th century.
The Oudekerksplein
We walked in the opposite direction, east, past the Grand Hotel Krasnapolsky to the Oudezijds Voorburgwal canal. These waterways are a delight and typical of historic Amsterdam, the old city one comes to see. Located here is the Oudekerk or Old Church. It is also next to the red-light district and the Erotic museum. The saying goes “you can visit the house of ill-repute and then confess next door in the Oudekerk”.
Climbing the Oudekerk tower
The 67m high tower is well worth the somewhat difficult climb. The climb involves a series of steep staircases and ladders. The climb does allow for some welcome stops at different levels. The entire tower is made from some fabulous thick oak beams. The view from the top needless to say is staggering. There are not many places where one can get a good view of the surrounding old town.
Zeedijk
Based around Zeedijk is Amsterdam’s small China-town. We lunched at the Dum Dum Palace on the Zeedijk. The area is peppered with cafes and coffee shops – of the Amsterdam-kind. Walking south, one arrives at the Nieuwemark square. The De Waag or Weigh house, built in 1488 dominates the square. It was part of the original city wall, the Sint Antoniespoort gate (St Anthony’s gate).
The Waag is depicted in Rembrandt’s 1632 painting called ‘The Anatomy Lesson of Dr Nicolas Tulp’. No doubt a reference to the pool of bodies available following the executions that took place here. South of the De Waag is Kloveniersburgwal which leads to the Amstel river, beyond which is Rembrandt square.
Which Museum should I visit in Amsterdam
In Amsterdam, there is a museum for just about everything. So, the choice is endless and covers everything from sex museums to the Rijksmuseum. We chose to visit “Our Dear Lord in the attic” – Museum Ons’ Lieve Heer op Solder! This church gave sanctuary to the Catholics alienated by the Calvinist take-over of Amsterdam.
Canal cruise of Amsterdam
We continued our tour of Amsterdam by boat which left from Oudezijds Voorburgwal just south of the Oudekerksplein. The ‘Friendship Rederij Amsterdam cruise’, costing €15pp, is an hour-long tour of Amsterdam’s old waterways which represent historic Amsterdam.
The cruise visits the three original 17th-century canals, the Herengracht, Keizersgracht and Prinsengracht. Above all, these canals represent the very heart of the Golden Age of 17th century Amsterdam. Finally, the cruise reaches the Amstel, the river from which Amsterdam gets its name. These are the streets where the city’s wealthy lived in its heyday.
The Dutch Opera and Ballet in Amsterdam
Our evening entertainment after a quick stop at an unremarkable Crepe shop was at the ballet, to see Matahari. Following a failed marriage, she reinvents herself in the Moulin Rouge in Paris. Now leading a tangled lifestyle with a number of lovers, she is accused of spying and meets an untimely end in front of a firing squad. It was beautifully performed, the contemporary music incredibly well written and a perfect evening’s entertainment following a packed day in Amsterdam. We finished the night with drinks in lively Rembrandt square.
Sunday – Haarlem Dunes Cycle ride (40kms)
The next morning, we arrived at Haarlem train station where in October we could pick up bikes without booking. Remember to bring a deposit of €50 each in CASH. The Dutch bikes are of the sit-up-and-beg kind. You can choose between no gears or 3-gears. Remember to pump up the bikes before you leave.
Download the Harlem Dunes Cycle route map and guide. The ride makes a refreshing contrast to Amsterdam. The light breeze refreshing as we cycled on the well-marked cycle tracks that took us east out of Haarlem to Spaarnwoude and Spaarndam through the flat polder landscape.
However, the different numbering of the cycle networks can get confusing. Inevitably, we lost our way several times. Fortunately, everyone seems to speak English. Nevertheless, once out on the sand dunes the open vistas on this warm sunny October day were captivating.
We stopped at the Vogelmeer bird lake to sing happy-birthday and eat some well needed cake. Then it was back on the bikes to cycle to the coast. It was hot, sunny and everybody was out on this cloudless day. The last section along the white sandy beach to Zandvoort gave a completely different and beckoning vista. We decided to spend some time on the beach before heading to catch the train back to Haarlem and to the airport.
Conclusion
A weekend with a difference in Amsterdam. The pace was fast, the distances covered on train, on foot, by cruising on canals and on bikes produced a unique collection of experiences that made our two nights in Amsterdam so memorable. And yes, the Dutch are a pretty friendly bunch if a bit direct!
Nangle facts & tips
Restaurants in Harlem – Thai – Erawan Thai restaurant
Indian – Gandhi Indian restaurant
Mexican – Popocatepetl Mexican restaurant
Restaurants in Amsterdam
Lunch at Dum Dum Palace on Zeedijk
Combine this tour with visits to Groningen, Utrecht or by visiting the Waddensea island of Texel.
