One Day in Rome: A Walking Tour from the Colosseum
Roma, non basta una vita. Which means that a lifetime isn’t enough to explore Rome. But what to do if you only have a weekend? We wanted to prove that you can see the major sights of the centro storico in day. So we started at the Colosseum and headed north.
Breakfast like a Roman
On the way to the Colosseum, we stopped at Panella. Caffe e cornetto simply doesn’t come much better than this. Trays of fresh croissants and glazed fruit pastries are stacked high while staff race to keep up with demand. The shelves groan under the weight of that morning’s bake: fresh round loaves, colourful pizzetta, and twists, rolls, and plaits of their famous bread. Panella prides itself on the art of bread and you won’t be disappointed. Order from the counter and take your ticket. Then aproned baristas will take your coffee order at the gleaming metal machine, which dispenses perfect thick coffee into tiny cups.
Walk back in time
It is tempting to stay on Panella’s pretty terrace. But how often in your life will you be fifteen minutes’ walk from the Colosseum? So get up and go. The way winds through the Colle Oppio Park, with beautiful views of the Colosseum and the Via dei Fori Imperiali away from the crowds. The tree lined avenue then leads you straight to that icon of the Ancient World.
The Colosseum
You’ve seen the pictures but it is always special to walk under the cracked arches of the Colosseum and imagine the gladiatorial battles of old. Entry is free on Sundays but the line is long. Guides will take you in for 15€ and you’ll beat the infamous Colosseum queue.
Walk like an emperor
Head on in to the Roman Forum to mingle with the crowds trying to recreate a bustling city centre from the looming pillars and mysterious ruins which remain. Entry costs another 15€ so, alternatively, you can choose to walk down the Via dei Fori Imperiali. Even on a winter Sunday, this wide thoroughfare is alive with troubadours, street acts, and pilgrims to the Eternal City.
Private transport has recently been banned from this historic avenue so go on, stand in the middle of the road and soak up the the history.
A view fit for a king
Continue along the via dei Fori Imperiali to climb the Il Vittoriano. Known to many irreverent Romans as the Wedding Cake, this blindingly white monument commemorates the unification of Italy and its first king, Vittorio Emmanuele II.
Tourists should take advantage of this royal folly, which provides some of the best panoramic views of the ancient city, including the majestic Colosseum. The marble terrace is a front row seat to the Vespas whizzing around the Piazza Venezia. But for the real views, you’ll need to pay 7€ for the elevator to the rooftop. It’s worth three times that to be part of a skyline like this.
Pizza and the Pantheon
At ground level, it’s a ten minute stroll through Piazza Venezia to Bernini’s elephant in the Piazza Minerva. From there, you’re steps from the Pantheon. You’ll want to savour the sight. You can pick up a coffee in Sant Eustachio Caffe or a pizza slice from one of the numerous takeaway places which surround the square. (If you can hold out, head to Pizzeria Da Baffetto for truly classic Roman fast food in cramped quarters.)
Shop the way to the Spanish Steps
From the Pantheon, it’s a quarter of an hour on foot to the Spanish steps. However, we suggest you take your time here and sample two of the great pleasures of Rome: ice cream and window shopping. Gelateria Giolitti is just by the Pantheon and well worth its reputation as one of Rome’s best. Everyone is catered for here: they serve everything from mousse to soy ice cream, frozen yoghurt to traditional gelato. If the flavours don’t blow your mind – …. anyone? – the sheer profusion of colourful choices certainly will.
Ice cream in hand, wander along the Via dei Condotti, where the world’s luxury brands gather to display their wares. Window displays are works of art. Beautiful people congregate. Ahead of you, the Spanish Steps rise from the fairy lit piazza. This is the dolce vita embodied. Take your turn people watching on the steps themselves. Or pay a visit to the iconic Caffe Greco, where an espresso will set you back 7€ and the many paintings are reflected in mottled gilt-edged mirrors.
Views from the Villa Borghese
Continue your walking tour of Rome by heading for Pincio Hill. Take the north east exit from the Piazza Spagna to takte the path uphill along the Viale delle Trinita dei Monti. After ten minutes, you’ll emerge above the domes and rooftops of the city. The park of the Villa Borghese is to your right, a breathtaking panorama to your left. Villa Borghese is one of Rome’s most popular parks and ideally you’d while away an entire day among the landscaped gardens and walkways. If you’re in the city for a weekend, head to the Pincio viewpoint and enter the park via the Pincio promenade. Along the Viale Magniole, you’ll come to a roundabout. Take the second exit and turn left onto the tree lined Viale dell’ Aranciera. This leads to a tranquil lake, near deserted in winter. The 1786 temple of Asclepius perches atop a rocky outcrop in all its Byronic romanticism.
Wind up by the river
After a long day’s walking, drop down to Piazza del Popolo. This marked the city’s northern gate and hosts the oldest of the city’s ancient obelisks. The walk from the Colosseum to the Piazza del Popolo winds from south to north, through the beauty of ancient Rome and the bustle of modernity. If you’re walking back or in search of supper, take a stroll along the Tiber.
An evening in Rome: some recommendations
- If the walk has left you hungry, head south to Testaccio’s famous Remo pizzeria in Piazza Santa Maria.
- For traditional trattoria fare, book ahead for the carbonara at upmarket Da Danilo on Via Petrarca, Esquilino.
- If you’re searching for the perfect wine bar, you can’t do better than going to the original. Cul de Sac on Piazza Pasquino was Rome’s first wine bar, back in 1968. This narrow bar is tucked behind the magnificent Piazza Navona. Beat the crowd by going early. By eight, there are queues for tables out the door. The walls are lined with hundreds of bottles. The menu is as weighty and serious as a 19th century Russian novel. They serve excellent bread, cheese, and charcuterie as well as hearty mains.
- Other wine bars nearby include Casa Bleve, on Via del Teatro Valle, where you can get your fill of columns and romantic atmosphere. There is also Etabli on Vicolo Delle Vacche, a converted 17th century palazzo with live music and a fireplace to warm the winter night.
- If you’re looking for entertainment, there are Rome’s jazz clubs to while away the night. Big Mama jazz club in Trastevere and the untouristy Charity Cafe on Via Panisperna, near Cavour metro.
