Arriving at Pendulum Cove felt like a world away from ice fields of Port Lockroy. It was to be the 1st of three stops, Telefon bay and Whaler’s Bay on Deception Island were the other two. This was another day packed with adventure on this volcanic island at the tip of the South Shetlands archipelago. And it would be an exploration of the extensive history that played out over the last two centuries right here. But before anyone of that we were introduced to a little madness at Pendulum Cove.
Pendulum Cove
The 1stactivity on offer today was not a hike or a zodiac tour of the caldera but of a swim. To be honest there were not many takers as the temperatures were sub-zero and the skies cloudy. However, it was not something we could resist. Inside the caldera, fumaroles from deep below warm the water enough to allow for a dip.
A quick trip ashore on the zodiacs with minimal cladding meant we could strip off quickly and run into the water. Guests choosing to swim were dressed in all manner of outfits. Infact as the water ebbed from the shoreline we shivered in the cold and as it flowed back, heated from beneath we grunted contentedly. It was quite a sight and for any wildlife looking on, must have been hilarious. We indulged in kelp-fights and summoned the courage to get out of the water. Many shivered uncontrollable as we attempted a swift wipe down and struggled into clothing when not completely dry. The helpful staff were on hand with thermos’ filled with hot-chocolate, and a swift return to the ship to warm-up. On-board we were indulged with hot goulash and sausages. It is an experience that still lists very highly.
Telefon Bay
Around the caldera from Pendulum Cove is Telefon Bay. The zodiacs followed the ship and we quickly disembarked and made it to shore for a hike. From here the aim was to hike to the top of the caldera on slopes covered in black ash. From here the two craters within, formed by eruptions in 1967 and 1969 were clearly visible. It was a dramatic sight. In one of them was a small lake. Looking back at the ocean the red ship was striking, a patch of bright colour on a black and white landscape.
Whaler’s Bay
Historically fascinating and insight into the whaling industry – yes. However, it was the least favourite stop on the entire cruise. Here, still remaining is rusting and twisted sections of metal, cooking ovens for blubber, fuel tanks and the essentials of life. Skeletons of whales littered the shores. It was eerie, cruel and barbaric. Here is also the old BAS station at Biscoe House and the ruins of different whaling companies.
In 1971 the area underwent a further eruption destroying many of the buildings and submerging others under a blanket of mud. You can still walk around the buildings that remained. In one corner is a hangar and parts of an aeroplane left behind. This place needs one major clean-up operation.
A worthy hike well away from the mess is up to Neptune’s Window from where the other side of Deception Island is visible. It appeared to be far windier on that side, wild and desolate. Even here though there were plenty of sea birds along the cliff face such as Pintado petrels and a large rookery with chinstrap penguins.
Nangle angle
This was an awesome place with volcanic activity clearly visible. However the whaling history can be hard to fathom.
Nangle facts & tips
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