A road trip from M’hamid to Zagora through the Draa valley and onto Marrakech through the High Atlas
M’hamid, the most southerly oasis in the Draa valley, is today where the sealed road ends. It lies north-east of the great Erg Chigaga, Morocco’s largest sand dunes, still over 50kms away. Beyond this is the Sahara Desert over which the great trans-Saharan camel caravanserais came from Timbuktu in Mali. This surely must be one of the world’s great historic trade routes and today makes a brilliant road trip. Its cargo of mainly salt, gold, dates and tragically slaves from Sub-Sahara was destined for the lavish markets of Marrakech and Fez. One can only imagine the delight of the traders and slaves as they reached the oasis at M’hamid after the long haul over the barren sands.
The route through the Draa valley
Today you can follow the journey of the caravanistas through the Draa valley up route N9. The drive from M’hamid to Ouarzazate and onto Marrakech can be completed in just two days. You don’t even need a 4WD.
But there is so much to experience along the way that it would be prudent to keep some extra days in hand. Thirty years ago, I cycled this 500km route of a 1000 Kasbahs on dirt roads. That was a considerably longer trip and the advantages huge. You get the opportunity to engage with the locals, breath the fresh air and travel at a slower pace. The road leads from the remote desert town of M’hamid through some staggeringly beautiful landscapes and fascinating history.
Outstanding cultural experiences in the Draa valley
Journeying north from M’hamid spend time imagining days gone by at the rock art galleries of Tagounite and later Tamegroute and Tinzouline. This artistic history is estimated to be between 4000-8000 years old and depicts implements, wildlife and lifestyles. It includes carvings of unknown figures, camels, horses and large cats, to the warrior drawings of spears and shields. This magnificent rock art was most likely painted by the traders or nomads who visited. A little further afield are the rock art inscriptions around Tazzarine on the N12, the road to Rissani.
The ancient library at Tamegroute
In Tamegroute savant travellers should visit the ancient library which in its heyday housed some 50,000-scholarly works. This impressive collection was collected from across the Middle East and Africa by Sidi Mohammed bin Nasir a scholar, and his son. Today, there is still a considerable collection here, showcasing outstanding calligraphy and books dedicated to medicine and religious teachings. The tomb of this 17th century scholar is also located within the walls of this Zawiya (a medersa or school), named after the scholar Nasir. The school itself is said to date from the 11th century.
Landscapes of the Draa valley
From the desert sand dunes to the plains and oases of the Draa, the drama of the landscape despite the presence of the road never ends. With its rammed earth adobe mud bricks, and beautifully engraved walls, the fortified Kasbahs and Ksars of the Draa valley once provided refuge to travellers.
Today, many are crumbling but seeing an isolated Kasbah on the horizon of a barren landscape evokes, one assumes, a similar sense of excitement as those of the traders of old. These arid landscapes with stunted thorny acacia trees also support herds of camels.
Near Tamegroute is the smallest sand dunes to Zagora. Nevertheless it makes a worthwhile stop, if nothing else to marvel at nature at work. These dunes are a little away from all the others, a bizarre effect of the wind action and the local topography.
The large lush oases towns of Zagora and Agdz with their vast palmerais provide a brilliant contrast on a road trip already filled with much variety.
From Agdz, the road passes through the Anti Atlas Mountains to Ouarzazate. Present day Ouarzazate on the other hand is a city with all the amenities of modern life. Even so, the cultural aspects of the town are distinctly traditional, unlike the tourist centres of Marrakech or Fez. For diehards, this town can be a disappointment, but most use it as a transit point to restock with supplies or to make use of the airport.
Beyond the Draa valley, from Ouarzazate to Marrakech over the Atlas Mountains
The road north of Ouarzazate leads to the Kasbah, Ait-Ben-Haddou, the last stop used by the caravanserais heading to Marrakech. Other caravan routes travel east along the Draa valley towards Jebel Saghro region of the High Atlas. Our route took us north on the ‘new’ road built by the French in the early 20th century. The road crosses the snowy High Atlas, zig zagging on tricky hairpin bends. It is a great cycle ride and exhilarating once over the Tiz n Tichka pass, the highest point at 2260m. Marrakech is an easy drive of about 3-4 hours and only slightly longer cycle ride from Ouarzazate on this road.
When to visit the Draa valley
In December, you can have much of the Draa valley to yourself and enjoy all the adventure and excitement of this magical area. Even in these winter months the blue skies envelope the area. Desert camping, camel riding, cycling, hiking or dune bashing is what attracts the many. Or you can observe life as in time gone by, little changed by the coming of the road.
Change is afoot even here, but in many ways it is positive. Morocco is investing in solar arrays to meet its ever-increasing energy demand. Huge arrays have already been erected in Ouarzazate and near the airport at Zagora. Many hotels in Morocco have also taken to generating their energy needs using photovoltaic solar panels.
Nangle angle
There are plenty of opportunities to find eco-lodges in the Draa valley.
Nangle facts & tips
Accommodation – Maison d’hote ecolodge+l’ile de ouarzazate
Sustainable features include – solar panels for electricity and an organic vegetable garden
Eco property in Tamnougalt near Agdz – Oasis Bab el Oued has won many sustainable awards
