In the far north of Romania is the county of Suceava, also known as Bucovina, just south of Ukraine. This is a tranquil land of low lying hills, dominated by birch and fir trees. Interspersed between the hills are vast expanses of fertile plains, criss-crossed by numerous rivers and streams. It is also a land where time has stood still. In this corner of Europe, running water is still a luxury for many, and the horse and cart if not the dominant form of transport, still plies the roads. The County is beginning to market itself as the ‘great outdoors’ with hiking trails, zip wires and horse riding on offer. In winter, there is even a chance to ski here. In addition, it is also where you can find the staggeringly beautiful Byzantine treasures, the painted monasteries of Bucovina.
The Painted Monasteries of Bucovina
And there are many to choose from. Starting early, it is possible to reach a selection of 5-6 monasteries. The road network on the other hand does not always make it easy. If you leave it completely to your satnav, you could well find yourself on dirt roads bumping along with the horse and cart, far more suited to these roads. Leaving the religious context aside, each of these monasteries are worthy art treasures and need support.
Patrauti Monastery
Just 20-minutes from our base in Suceava is Patrauti monastery. Built in 1487 and dedicated to the Holy Cross, this was our 1st stop. Moreover, it is the oldest surviving religious site founded by Stephen the Great. Unfortunately, the monastery was not open when we visited. Helpfully however, there was a telephone number stuck to the front door! From the outside, the monastery looked to be in desperate need of help. Inside, the paintings are said to be in a good state. Only the church, a wooden bell tower and a water-well remain. In addition, there is a museum opposite the church building, which was also closed.
Arbore Painted Monastery
This monastery was built in 1503 by Luca Arbore, an advisor to Stephen the Great. However, the paintings on the exterior and interior were only completed in 1541 at the request of Arbore’s niece. The church is in a slightly better state of disrepair on the outside than Patrauti. There is a bell tower next to the church, that can be seen in the image. Moreover, one can climb to the top of the bell tower for better views. However, the church was not open, so once again we could not study the interior.
Sucevita Painted Monastery
Founded in 1581, this is the Church of the Resurrection at Sucevita Monastery. This church was by far the best preserved of those we visited. Enter the complex through the two-storey gate-house into the well-maintained courtyard. More importantly it is the heart of a thriving monastic complex. The nuns can be seen scurrying around undertaking their daily duties cleaning, running a shop and a small but very interesting museum. If you have time for only one church, this is probably the best.
Moldovita Painted Monastery
The setting of Moldovita painted monastery is beautiful. Surrounded by low lying forested hills, the village of Vatra Moldovitei is the location of this church. It was built in 1532 by Petru Rares. The frescoes were completed by 1537 and depicts the Siege of Constantinople amongst others. What is more, this church has architectural elements similar to Humor monastery. At prayer time, you often find a nun walking around the church beating a long wooden paddle with a wooden hammer. This tradition was started under Ottoman rule, when bell-ringing was banned to call the faithful to prayer.
Voronet Painted Monastery
This monastery is undoubtedly one of the best preserved of the painted monasteries that we visited. There are several scenes of note here. For example, on the south façade one of the paintings depicts the ‘life of St Nicholas. In addition, by the entrance door are two scenes of St George piercing the dragon. Perhaps the most dramatic painting is found on the west facade. This image depicts the Last Judgement. The dramatic and intense paintings continue inside the chancel. These interior paintings were completed in 1496. The exonarthex or ‘porch’ was painted half a century later. The church still retains some worthy masterpieces of medieval art such as the princely throne, the pews and an iconostasis made of gilded yew wood. The beautiful shade of blue in this monastery is now known as Voronet blue.
Humor Painted Monastery
We had been on the trail all day when we finally arrived at dusk at Humor monastery. The church stands in pretty grounds within a complex close to the town. The church was built in 1530 under the patronage of a court official. The lack of a steeple on the roof indicating the architect was not someone of royal blood. The frescoes of the ‘Return of the Prodigal Son’ is one of the treasures of this monastery.
Nangle angle
Stunning art treasures from a bygone era. Our favourites were Sucevita and Moldovita monastery.
Nangle facts & tips
Suceava is a great, central base from which to visit the painted monasteries. It is a good 6-hour drive from Bucharest or a 3-4 hour drive from Brasov. Furthermore, for up to date information on the Painted Monasteries visit the Romanian Tourist website here.
