Dubrovnik, Croatia City Break
Immerse oneself in yesteryear
It was a spur of the moment decision to escape to Europe and we chose the historic city of Dubrovnik now designated a UNESCO world heritage site. We landed in torrential rain a far cry from the Adriatic dream of blue skies. The airport was small and still under construction but with our EU passports we sailed through immigration.
We headed to Sixt car rental the car hire company with whom we had booked our Volkswagen polo. It had cost us around £40 for 6 days + £12 insurance. But we were naive to think that was the whole cost. By the time we had added an extra driver for €24, € 45 for a carnet de passage to cross borders into Bosnia and Montenegro, €45 for fuel, a mistake, plus a hefty 25% VAT, we had more than quadrupled our initial outlay. The Dubrovnik area is surrounded by Bosnia Herzegovina to the north and east and Montenegro to the south. Consequently, the carnet de passage is vital even if you plan to drive only to Split in Central Dalmatia. However, we did manage to clock-up over 1000km.
Cavtat south of Dubrovnik
Leaving the airport was straightforward as we headed to our accommodation at the Villa Voinic in Cavtat just 2 km from the airport and 18km south of Dubrovnik. The accommodation was managed by 3 generations of the same family who were very friendly and welcoming. The ensuite room was clean, simply furnished with a useful kitchenette and distant views of the Adriatic. It was a short walk downhill to the town, set around one of the most picturesque harbours in Croatia. From here small taxi-boats plied the waters to Dubrovnik, depositing one right into the heart of the old city. The return cost for for these trips were around €14, and an exciting way to reach Dubrovnik. Boats could also be taken to a number of other islands from Cavtat harbour too.
Getting to Dubrovnik
The coast road into Dubrovnik too was stunning. From high up, wonderful views of the islands dotted in the Adriatic are visible. Normally one would not advocate driving into Dubrovnik old town, but the rain had somewhat dampened people’s determination to venture out. Our small car was perfect for the narrow roads that wound into Dubrovnik. Just beyond the outer wall of the old town amazingly we found a car parking space on the Iza Grada. Parking by the Buza gate entrance undoubtedly was highly convenient. The Minceta tower, one of the four-main towers of the city wall was five-minutes walk away. While at just €0.66 per hour this must be one of the cheapest parking spots at an A-grade tourist destination.
Furthermore, it was also the perfect parking spot to gain access to the cable car. A return ride on the cable car currently costing about €17. The panoramic views of the top of the orange tiled roofs beside the piercing blue seas are simply stunning. There are also plenty of walks to explore the area at the top.
Exploring Dubrovnik old town
We walked down the steep steps from the Buza gate to the Placa or Stradun. This is the main street, which leads from the harbour to the Pile entrance. Each layer of the old city can be explored for charming restaurants, endless shopping and cultural stops. Amongst these ancient walls are also homes, where people actually live. Even in May the crowds were relentless and I dread to think what the summer months will bring. Once we reached the Stradun, we turned left towards the sea arriving shortly at Luza Square, next to St Blaise Church. In front of the Church we were treated to some lively folk dancing that was both colourful and entertaining.
Munching on healthy snacks we wandered through the interior of the old city, charming views on every corner. Interestingly local life carries on regardless of the tourists. Washing lines with drying clothes and locals leaning across windows to chat were a common sight. We even witnessed a wedding at the Cathedral of the Assumption of the Virgin. As we climbed higher up, the endless restaurants and wine bars fizzled out to be replaced by residential accommodation. We indulged in some delicious ice cream as the rain abated and the sun came down.
The next day
Dubrovnik sparkled in sunshine this morning, a big difference from the drab Dubrovnik of yesterday. Once again we managed to find car parking closeby on the Zagrebacka, the road above the Iza Grada. This time a parking attendant charged us €5 for 3 hours parking, a ‘gentleman’s agreement’. From here, shallow steps lead down to the Pile gates, the main entrance that leads onto the Stradun.
Our focus today was to walk the walls of Dubrovnik. The Pile entrance has an outer gate dating from 1537. It feature’s a renaissance arch with a statue of St Blaise, the patron saint of the city placed above the arch. An inner city gate, gothic in design built earlier around mid 15th -century is connected by a drawbridge to the outer gate. Just on the left through the gate is Onofrio’s fountain one of Dubrovnik famous landmarks, while beyond the Franciscan monastery and opposite is the entrance to climb the walls (Cost €20). It was busy today as a half-marathon was in full swing, ending at the end of the Stradun.
Walking Dubrovnik’s city wall
We climbed steeply to get up to the 2km wall, walking anticlockwise as rules dictate and towards the Bokar tower facing the Adriatic. Get a map before you walk onto the wall to help identify all the places of interest. Bring lots of water and maybe a snack as we took 3-4 hours to soak up all the views both within and without the town walls.
Views from the Wall
From every turn the views were brilliant. Fabulous views of St Lawrence fortress just outside the western city wall and now a theatre, is magnificent. Much of the wall is along the waters edge from where colourful kayaks and boats were framed against the deepest blue waters. Taking a kayak out is a must-do when in Dubrovnik. In the distance numerous islands can be seen. Drinks and ice cream can be purchased on the wall at some cost.
From the wall high up you can also witness city life below, hear the clanging of plates from the restaurants, and linger atop watching the boats come in and out of the small harbour. Hang onto your ticket as you do need to show it again halfway round where if you have had enough walking on the wall you can leave. If you carry on you can walk up look out towers and witness life that has built-up around outside the old walls.
Nangle Facts & tips
We travelled in May 2017
Hotel in Cavtat – Villa Voinic
