The wadi phenomenon of Oman
The wadi directly translates as valley or gorge in Arabic and Oman’s Hajar mountains are scarred by some of the most dramatic wadis we have been privileged to explore. Thrilling drives, awe-inspiring walks and indeed distant panoramic views, are just some of the experiences to be had on this part of the Arabian Peninsula. Equally important is the chance to experience the cultural heritage of these regions.
The Hajar mountains of northern Oman are thought to have formed over 800 million years ago. They have therefore endured over millennia, several glaciation events, interspersed with warm periods where precipitation dominated. These mountains have been further shaped by springs and rivers that have carved out these stunning gorges.
Each wadi is unique, shaped predominantly by its geology. Beautiful coloured rocks exposed following aeons of tectonic uplift, folding and erosion rise from the valley floors. In many cases this tortured uplift provides a small window on geological history. Many a wadi has been brought to life by the efforts of farmers who have created ecosystems that contrast markedly with the dry arid landscape outside.
As a result, exploration of a wadi is a must-do in Oman and one we would unhesitatingly recommend. All of them bar Wadi Shab require 4WD. Lower your carbon footprint by camping in the wadis, and take heed of weather warnings as flash floods do occur. Some of these wadis are narrow and can be intrusive to the communities living in them. So, be sensitive, take your litter away, and engage and support their industry where possible.
Wadi Ghul
This perhaps is the most dramatic wadi of all. Observed from above near Jebel Shams or by driving and walking through the wadi, this gorge has all the drama. The entrance to the wadi was not easy to find. Use online maps to guide you to the Wadi Ghul river. In the dry season, it is easy to follow the trajectory of the river and head for the massive cleft in the mountain.
Steep walls rise over a kilometre above from within the valley. Inevitably, the light casts striking shadows. The road that traverses the narrow valley floor is flanked on either side by massive boulders. Many of these have lodged precariously above the road. Adjacent to the road is the river. In January/February this river had stalled to a trickle, its flow nurtured by the inhabitants. Date palms abound, many clinging onto the rocky walls. The village of Al Nakhdar is 5kms up the valley. We chose to walk the last 2kms as the road does get tricky to negotiate.
Wadi Shab
This narrow wadi provides a good alternative to all the others as it is inaccessible to cars. As a result, it provides a tranquil, easy trekking experience through stunning scenery, including some stunning green pools . Apart from the coastal highway slung unceremoniously over the entrance the staggering beauty of the wadi is immediate. Located metres away from the blue sea, the wadi can only be entered by crossing a small lake. A ferry costs OR1 and just takes a couple of minutes.
In addition to the stunning scenery, the lush valley floor is home to cooperative farms that share the falaj irrigation system. The water emanates from a spring high up the wadi. Engage with the farmers for a worthwhile experience. Both men and women tend these fields working with their hands to plant, tend their crops or redirect the falaj to plant beds as required. Banana, papaya, olives and date palms dominate this lower section.
The walk inevitably climbs uphill eventually clinging to the side of the wadi. Some stretches of these paths are on smooth marble rocks that can at times be slippery.
The lakes below though are stunning. Further up the valley there are several welcoming pools that encourage a swim that requires clambering on boulders to reach them. The return journey takes about 2-hours, but this is a great place to relax and observe wadi life
Wadi Bani Awf
The valley is nestled between Nakhal and Al Rustaq on Route 13 at the base of the Al Akhdar range of mountains. The signpost guides you through the wadi and onto Al Hamra in the mountains close to Nizwa. In February farmers were attending to their date palms. The metalled road ends at the village of Al Bardah. The unsealed track continues onto Nizwa via Al Hamra, at times clinging to the edge of the mountain. It certainly provides some of the best off-road driving experience, even in the lower stretches that we undertook. We will be sure to return to reach Al Hamra next time.
Wadi Tiwi
The wadi of nine-villages lies just a kilometre further south on the coast road from Wadi Shab. You can drive through Wadi Tiwi. However, the road is so narrow in most places that it can be impossible to turn round, and I’m not sure that the locals welcome it.
After the 2nd village and nearly needing to drive on the slippers of worshippers at a mosque we decided to park the car and walk. Avoid Friday, the start of the weekend here. Many ‘Muscateers’ and expats drive down for a spot of wadi bashing, and these steep, single-file, narrow roads with very, very few turning spots appears to be on their radar.
Nevertheless, the walk is relatively easy. There are many places to stop and enjoy the scenery. The valley widens higher up before narrowing dramatically. Isolated, stunning green pools of water provide areas to escape from the frenzy of the road. There is also a lot of water for farming, hence the many villages that have located here.
Wadi Bani Khalid
We discovered this wadi almost by accident. After a day on the Sharkiya (Wahiba to locals) sands we had intended to drive to Sur on the coast. It was getting late as we saw the sign to Markham Natural Park complete with public facilities. This wild-camping spot is at the lower edges of the wadi, nevertheless providing a stunning backdrop. The public toilets were wonderfully clean and we had the whole place just to ourselves. The next day we drove off- track along the wadi, but despite using a 4WD we couldn’t reach the very top by following the river. This needs we believe to be accessed using the main road.
Wadi Mayh
This is the wadi closest to Muscat. This wadi is distinctively different to those mentioned above. Nevertheless, if time is limited, then Wadi Mayh can be included in a circular day-trip from Muscat. The 1st 10kms or so is on sealed roads easily accessible from route 17 between Muscat and Sur on the coast. The valley floor is wide, but the walls of the gorge still show the tortured uplift this area must have endured in the past. Coloured rocks exposed catch the evening sunlight. The communal falaj irrigation system also is in operation here. At the other end of the wadi is Yitti. Close by are the most beautiful beaches accessible from Muscat.
Next trip
There are many other wadis worth exploring such as Wadi Abyad. It is geologically significant as the boundary between the earth’s crust and mantle can be observed here. This is explained well in the blog below –
https://wmblogs.wm.edu/cmbail/the-road-to-the-moho/
Nangle angle
‘Explore Oman maps’ – this series details many of the wadis easily accessible from Muscat.
Nangle facts & tips
A 4WD is required for access to all the wadis mentioned above except Wadi Shab which can only be accessed on foot.
If you only have a short time, Wadi Mayh can be easily accessed from Muscat. With more time Wadi Bani Awf could be one of the drives of the Arabian Peninsula.
Finally, if Oman’s wadis kindle your spirit of adventure check out the spectacular gorges in Morocco, the Dades gorge and the Todra gorge.
